Ups and Downs on Vulture’s Peak

I looked up, the sun had set, the sky was still light and a crescent moon hung above the evening sky. We had finished meditating at Vulture’s Peak in Rajgir. I was definitely feeling a rising sense of irritation take over. How fluctuating the realm of emotions. How swayed we are by likes and dislikes. Just a few hours ago as I sat in meditation in from of Maha Mogalana’s cave I felt inspired, prickled with pleasant sensation of rapture and stillness. Later as we chanted together in front of Sariputta’s cave my heart was uplifted with faith and gratitude for the Buddha Dhamma and Sangha.

Yet right at the top of the mount my wholesome feelings took a grand nose dive. The top of Vulture’s Peak was busy. There were many pilgrims all gathering to pay homage, which is good (more people venerate the Buddha)…however somehow here it felt dissonant. A very tall Asian Buddhist guru was gathered with his followers. Sorry but to me it looked anything but holy. The man shouted in a language I couldn’t understand at his devotees almost scolding them. Stood behind the Buddha figure knocked his head on top of it, patted the Buddha Rupa…surely this can’t be right. I closed my eyes…Buddho Buddho…refocusing on my breath. Then a loud chant pierced through my right ear. I have practised under the Bodhi tree with chants coming at me in all directions, yet this really irritated my senses. It was loud, constant grating and not pleasant in any way. Well that’s my edge…no equanimity…just time to patiently endure…actually endure with suffering is more appropriate.

Our group was ready to leave. I picked up my cushion and belongings and decided to walk down. Vulture’s Peak is a bit of a steep climb. Some people find it difficult yet they have a devotional heart and they want to reach the top of this special place where Buddha spent many months teaching and meditating. So there are people who carry pilgrims on their shoulders. I was just behind two men who were carrying a few sweet ladies. As I watched the bodies of these old men, their hips displaced, their legs weary, their shoulders definitely under stress from the daily carrying tears raged in my eyes. I felt sad that their lives were so hard. As a yoga teacher I am used to observe bodies and can tell if the body can develop pain…here surely these men were in pain…but they endured on up and down Vulture’s Peak.

I kept walking and passed them. Suddenly I realised I was walking alone. Usually so far in the trip I always had the company of fellow pilgrims…but suddenly here I was walking down Vulture’s Peak alone. I looked down at the forest on my left. This place feels special…almost as if the veil is thin.Wait did I see something white move in the forest below…hmm maybe I am imagining things. I walked on feeling the evening coolness, my grumpy mood, melancholic wonder and a concoction of strange emotions.

I reached where the bus was meant to be parked. Suddenly a young happy faced boy came up to me. “Thai Bus? Vietnam Bus? Thai Bus? Vietnam Bus?” Thai Bus I said guessing he meant our bus as there were more Thai tourists in our bus. He very happily guided me to where the bus was. He even called out to his little sister and they very happily pointed me to the bus. I really liked these two kids, their energy was light, they wanted to help, surely they would have liked a tip but there was no pestering. I didn’t have any cash on me, so got back on the bus to get some. As I looked down they were not there…I felt a bit sad, as I really wanted to give them something. Anyway as I sat on the bus and looked out there they were smiling and waving…so I got down and gave the little brother some money and asked him to share it with his little sister. I asked them their name, Deva said the boy, and my sister is Rani. I felt strangely soft and melty in my heart almost teary…don’t know why…we said bye and I got back on the bus!

The next day we went back to Vulture’s Peak…this time very early! And YES! It was mist covered magical. Peaceful meditation followed by chanting of the Heart Sutra. Sublime! As I walked down I wondered if I would see Deva and Rani again…yes little Deva was there, he asked if he could carry my bag for me. Thank you but I can manage, I asked where his sister was? He ran to get her. They are very sweet, this time I gave some money to Rani the sister and asked her to share it with her brother. Ashoka another fellow pilgrim who is a very sincere meditation practitioner was there so I asked her to take a picture of  us, she very kindly did. Then little Rani gave me a bright red plastic wrapped candy. Aww so sweet. I felt confident these two would do fine in life, they had goodness in their hearts.

It was perhaps the most joyful moment of giving Dana for me. There was love mutual respect and loads of joy! Much Metta to Deva and Rani of Vulture’s Peak!